For some, it is just a walk in the park to get your car looking all shiny from the outside. However, it is an entirely different story when it comes to keeping the interiors looking the same way.

It is of vital importance to take good care of the car’s interior as it not only keeps it clean and fresh, but in the long run will also impact in adding to the resale value of the automobile. A well maintained interior undoubtedly improves the driving experience as well.

Taking a few precautionary measures would not hurt, as this would reduce the burden of cleaning the interiors later on. The following guidelines would keep your car looking as good as new always.

1) Use of rubber mats:

We tend to bring in a lot of dirt into the car through our footwear. It would be a great idea to supplement the factory cloth mats with rubber or plastic mats. These mats protect the fabric below as they act as excellent dust collectors. They are also less prone to damage when compared to cloth mats.

2) Drive with air conditioning on:

There is a lot of dust in the atmosphere. Accumulation of dust in a car causes the interiors to age much faster. This reduces the overall aesthetic beauty of the car and hence affects its resale value. Hence it is always advisable to drive with the air conditioning on.

3) Do not eat, drink or smoke in the car:

We all try to be careful while consuming beverages in the car. Don’t we? Irrespective of our efforts, we tend to make mistakes which badly stain the upholstery of the car. You can always make out from the interiors of a car to identify whether the driver smokes or not. More often than not you would always find burn patches here and there which are non-repairable.

4) Vacuuming:

Vacuuming is the best method to keep a car’s inside spick and span. It helps remove dirt hidden in various nook and crannies of the car. It helps you reach areas that are non-accessible to your hands and hence helps in deep cleansing of the car.

5) Upholstery cleaners:

Although Vacuuming helps to capture loose dirt, it is of little use when it comes to cleaning tough stains. Use high quality upholstery cleaners in order to do away with the blemishes. To retain the suppleness of the fabric, always blot the stains with the cleaner instead of rubbing over them.

Automotive 2Basic elements Collection chambers and vacuum valve units Vacuum sewer lines Central vacuum station Vacuum technology is based on differential air pressure. Rotary vane vacuum pumps generate an operation pressure of -0.4 to -0.6 bar at the vacuum station, which is also the only element of the vacuum sewerage system that must be supplied with electricity. Interface valves that are installed inside the collection chambers work pneumatically. Any sewage flows by means of gravity into each house collection sump. After a certain fill level inside this sump is reached, the interface valve will open. The impulse to open the valve is usually transferred by a pneumatically (pneumatic pressure created by fill level) controlled controller unit. No electricity is needed to open or close the valve. The according energy is provided by the vacuum itself. While the valve is open, the resulting differential pressure between atmosphere and vacuum becomes the driving force and transports the wastewater towards the vacuum station. Besides these collection chambers, no other manholes, neither for changes in direction, nor for inspection or connection of branch lines, are necessary. High flow rates keep the system free of any blockages or sedimentation. Vacuum sewer systems are considered to be free of ex- and infiltration which allows the usage even in water protection areas. For this reason, vacuum sewer lines may even be laid in the same trench as potable water lines (depending on local guidelines). The system supplier should certify his product to be used in that way. To achieve the condition of an infiltration-free system and therefore allowing to reduce the waste water amounts that need to be treated, water tight (PE material or similar) collection chambers should be used. Valve and collection sump (waste water) preferably should be physically separated (different chambers) in order to protect service personal against direct contact with waste water and to ensure longer life cycles (waste water is considered to be corrosive). In order to ensure reliable transport, the vacuum sewer line is laid in a saw-tooth (length-) profile, which will be referred to more precisely afterwards. The whole vacuum sewers are filled with air at a pressure of -0.4 to -0.6 bar. The most important aspect for a reliable operation is the air-to-liquid ratio. When a system is well designed, the sewers contain only very small amounts of sewage. The air-to-liquid ratio is usually maintained by “intelligent” controller units or valves that adjust their opening times according to the pressure in the system. Considering that the vacuum idea relies on external energy for the transport of fluids, sewers can be laid in flat terrain and up to certain limits may also be counter-sloped. The saw-tooth profile keeps sewer lines shallow, lifts minimise trench depth (approx. 1.0 1.2 m). In this depth, expensive trenching, as it is the case for gravity sewers with the necessity to install continuously falling slopes of at least 0.5 – 1.0%, is avoided. Lifting stations are not required. Once arrived in the vacuum collection tank at the vacuum station, the wastewater is pumped to the discharge point, which could be a gravity sewer or the treatment station directly. As the dwell time of the watewater inside the system is very short and the wastewater is continuously mixed with air, the sewage is kept fresh and any fouling inside the system is avoided (less H2S). Advantages closed, pneumatically controlled system with a central vacuum station. Electrical energy is only needed at this central station no sedimentation due to self-cleansing high velocities spooling and maintenance of the sewer lines is not necessary manholes are not required Usually only a single vacuum pump station is required rather than multiple stations found in gravity and low pressure networks. This frees up land , reduces energy costs and reduces operational costs. investment costs can be reduced up to 50% due to simple trenching at shallow depths, close to surface flexibility of piping, obstacles (as open channels) can be over- or underpassed reduced installation time small diameter sewer pipes of HDPE, PVC materials; savings of material costs aeration of sewage, less development of H2S, with its dangers for workers, inhabitants, as well as corrosion of the pipes may be avoided; sewage is kept fresh no odours along the closed vacuum sewers no infiltration, less hydraulic load at treatment station and discharge sewers absolutely no leakages (vacuum avoids exfiltration) sewers may be laid in the same trench with other mains, also with potable water or storm-water, as well as in water protection areas Lower cost to maintain in the long term due to shallow trenching and easy identification of problems In combination of vacuum toilets it creates concentrated waste streams, which makes it feasible to use different waste water treatment techniques, like anaerobic treatment Limitations vacuum systems are not capable of transporting sewage over very long distances, but can pump long distances from the vacuum station to the next STP or main gravity sewer. vacuum sewerage systems are only capable for the collection of wastewater within a separated system (not for the collection of storm-water) the lines can only reach up to 3-4 km laid in flat area (restrictions of the system due to headlosses (3-4.5 m) (friction and static)) systems should be designed with help of an experienced manufacturer (concepts are usually free of charge) external energy is required at a central point for collecting sewage odours close to the vacuum station can occur, a biofilter may be necessary Integrity of the pipe joints is paramount Application Fields Vacuum sewer systems becomes more and more the preferred system in the case of particular circumstances: Especially difficult situations as ribbon, peripheral settlements on flat terrain with high specific conduit lengths of longer than 4 metres per inhabitant are predestined for the application of vacuum sewerage systems. In the case of sparse population density the influence of the costs for the collection chambers and vacuum stations are less important in comparison to the costs of long and deep sewers on gravity. Missing incline of the ground, unfavourable soil (rocky or swampy grounds) and high groundwater table (with the necessity of dewatering trenches) lead to enormous investment costs in regards to gravity sewerage systems. On the contrary vacuum sewers that are small in diameter can be laid close to the surface in small trenches. Vacuum sewers can pass through water protection areas and areas with sensitive high ground water tables, because there is no danger of spoiling groundwater resources (vacuum sewers have a high leak tightness due to their material; moreover the vacuum itself does not allow exfiltration). Vacuum systems has also been applied to collect toxic wastewater. Vacuum systems are seen as a priority in many environmentally sensitive areas such as the Couran Cove Eco Resort close to the Barrier Reef in Australia. In seasonal settlements (recreation areas, camping sites etc.) with conventional gravity sewer systems, sedimentation problems can easily occur as automatic spooling from the daily waste water does not take place. High flow velocities within vacuum sewers prevent such sedimentation problems. The Formula 1 race tracks in Shanghai and Abu Dhabi are using a vacuum sewer system for that reason. Even in old narrow and historical villages, the use of vacuum sewer systems becomes more and more important due to a fast (traffic, tourism), cost-effective and flexible installation. Good examples and references can be found in France, such as the village of Flavigny, in Oman at the township of Khasab and Al Seeb. Lack of water in many countries and drastic water savings measures have led to difficulties with aging gravity networks with solids blocking in the pipes. Neither the lack of water nor solids affect resp. occur in vacuum sewer systems. That’s why this technology becomes interesting for such kind of applications. As PE or PVC pipes are used, no solids from ageing pipes will enter the system. All other solid are kept out at the collection chambers. vacuum sewer systems don’t have any manholes to dump big solids into the system. Project Examples The county of Sarasota, Florida and the city of Carnation, Washington are developing a county wide collection system and is incorporating vacuum sewers. In Germany, several hundred well-working systems are operating since the 1970. Especially in the Middle East (United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Bahrain, Oman), vacuum sewer systems become more and more important due to easy and fast installation along with water saving effects and easiness of maintenance. The world’s most famous vacuum sewer project is currently the Palm Island Jumeirah, located at the coast of Dubai City, United Arab Emirates. Approx. 23.000 people will be connected to this vacuum sewer system with only 1 central vacuum station. The vacuum station is considered to be the biggest vacuum station in the world. The biggest installation in Europe (several vacuum stations) can be found in Gerasdorf (near Vienna), Austria, where many benefits of a vacuum sewer system helped to overcome difficult conditions in this mountainous area. Good examples can be found on the Maldives, the post-tsunami WATSAN project UNICEF – UN, where on several islands vacuum sewer systems have been the best option. Several other project, mainly for resorts, have already been realized on the Maldives. Vacuum sewer systems are not only used in the Europe or Middle East but even in low developed third world countries. Several vacuum sewer systems have been already built or are currently under construction in Africa (South Africa, Botswana, Namibia) for townships and rural areas where the benefit of fast construction time, cost saving trenching and high flexibility have come to full effect. Australia has been one of the largest users of vacuum sewer systems due to the low installation and operational costs. The largest system to-date has been at the Tea Gardens development in New South Wales, which will ultimately handle over 4.500 houses. The Water Corporation in Western Australia is considered the largest single owner of vacuum systems in the world with over 30 schemes now under their operational control. The United Kingdom is well served by Vacuum Sewerage Systems, the region most extensively served are the low lying fenlands of the East of England. High water tables (in some cases less than 1metre below the surface) and poor ground conditions have meant that the local Water Company Anglian Water has embraced the use of Vacuum Sewerage, taking advantage of the system’s requirement for small bore sewer pipes laid in shallow trenches, dramatically reducing the requirement for pumping stations as would be required by conventional gravity sewer systems. The largest Vacuum Sewerage scheme in this region serves the villages of Outwell and Upwell, 4 vacuum collection stations serve some 1500 homes in this agglomeration. On initial costings for a conventional gravity sewer to serve the area, previously served by domestic septic settlement tanks the site would have required the installation of 32 pumping stations. Using a vacuum sewer system, this number of pumping stations was reduced to 4 vacuum stations. Other companies in the UK such as Southern water operate vacuum sewer systems, too. Lately, vacuum sewer systems become popular for industrial and commercial projects as well, where only little domestic waste water occurs and where the flexibility of a vacuum sewer system allows easy coordination with usually plenty of other utilities in the ground. Good examples can be found again in the Middle East, such as some small industrial areas in the Emirate of Ras al Khaimah or the newly built Qatalum Aluminium Plant in Qatar, the world’s largest primary aluminium plant. The well known eco-city of Masdar, U.A.E., uses a vacuum sewer system as well to separate grey from black water. Installation and construction The following section covers some basic information regarding the installation of vacuum sewer system. This section is not complete and should only give a basic overview. Based on long term experience, only HDPE pipes should be used for vacuum sewer system pipe works. The recommended pipe classification is SDR11. Preferences should be given to electro fusion joints rather than butt welding. In general, butt welding shall only be allowed for pipe diameters bigger or equal than 150mm as the internal beads from butt welding methods will reduce the diameter especially for 90mm pipes significantly which can cause blockages inside the pipes. It is most important not to use any 90 connection within the pipe work. This refers to any main or branch lines connections as well as to horizontal direction changes. Only wye-fittings and 45 bends may be used. Using 90 connection will lead to blockages within the system and may create water hammers with temporarily pressure drops affecting the equipment. It is furthermore very important to follow the pipe profiles which should be given by the system supplier. A minimum requirement is a constant slope of 0.2% within the so called saw tooth profile. Upwards slopes and deviations from the given pipe profiles will lead to water sags causing temporarily blockages and pressure drops resp. additional head losses. In worst case, this can lead to a failure of the system. Especially the connection line from the collection pit to the next branch or main line needs to maintain a certain slope as otherwise water sags may cut off the valves from the vacuum inside the pipe system causing malfunction of the valves. Special attention has to be given to the civil works related to the pipe work installation. Over-compaction or damages to the pipes by excavators may result in significant problems during operation. Even if the pipe withstands the pressure tests during construction and after backfilling, squeezed pipes or pipe full of concrete or other construction debris will lead to blockages and water sags during operation. Although international guidelines give clear recommendations for gate valves (every 400-500m within main lines and for branch lines longer than 200-250m), all important side branches should be equipped with a gate valves. This will allow much faster pressure tests and leak detection during construction and will allow emergency measures if problems occur. Ruling technical guidelines and norms EN 1091 DWA-A 116-1 (also known as ATV-DVWK-A 116, Part 1) WEF (Water Environment Federation) Alternative Sewer Systems (Second Edition -2008) WSA 07 (Australian Code) AS 4310 – 2004 (Australian Vacuum Interface Valve Standard) External links Airvac, International (U.S.A.) Roevac, International (Germany) Iseki, UK Quavac, Netherlands Flovac,

Ok. You bought your dream car. It has the most powerful YET fuel efficient engine on the market. You have to do your part in fighting global warming after all. The car comes with everything youve always wanted. It even comes with bells and whistles you never even knew existed.

By the end of this decade, a third of your car’s value will be in its electronics and advanced technologies. Current tech toys not only makes your car more fun but also safer to drive and lets them go farther on a gallon of fuel, and emit less pollution; all while zipping around corners quickly.

However, did you know that you can even add more technology to the car? Believe it or not but you actually can. There are advances in Bluetooth and navigation aspects. If youre car didnt come with a backup camera factory installed, then dont worry. They now make backup cameras which shoot clearer than your current digital camera. Isnt it exciting?

Here is a list put together from the people at Car and Driver and PC World of the newest and best add-on tech accessories being sold for your car. While some of these may not be cheap, they are definitely fun.

Traffic Info: Garmin Nvi 680  The best is never the cheapest. These shirt-pocket devices are the Nvi 680. They come with a 4.3-inch quarter VGA (QVGA, or 320-by-240) LCD screen. You can connect it to your car’s power and it receives real-time traffic reports, giving you a better idea of roads to avoid.

Add-On: HD Radio Directed Electronics Car Connect DMHD1000 – HD Radio can triple the radio broadcasts you receive. One frequency will carry the digital station while two others are multi-cast over the same frequency. The Car Connect HD tuner connects to any existing radio via the antenna for no loss of signal quality. All you need to do is mount a small module on the dash, then tune your radio to an unused FM station, or use the auxiliary input.

Car Stereo: Sony MEX-BT5000 – For a unique way to experience Bluetooth in your car, you need to replace your old stereo with one that integrates the latest in Bluetooth technology. The MEX-BT5000 has an AM/FM receiver, CD player, 24-bit DAC, and more. This Bluetooth isn’t just for phone calls. Using a device supporting A2DP (the Advanced Audio Distribution Profile), you can stream music off devices, and there are plug-in modules for iPods and satellite radio.

Cell-Phone Navigator: LG 9900 ENV  It seems every day portable navigators shrink even smaller and smaller. Theyre so tiny; its difficult to remember to take them with you. Consider this like a cell phone with navigation built-in, such as the LG 9900 enV running VZ Navigator software from Verizon and Networks in Motion. Place messaging lets you send a “GPS thumbtack” to someone else’s phone, setting your location as the destination.

GPS Navigation: Alpine PMD-B100 Blackbird  This one has it all. Here’s a navigation device you can use three ways: Try it as a battery-operated walkabout unit with a 3.6-inch color screen, as a dashboard-mounted personal navigation aid, or add a $200 docking module to it which hides the Blackbird under your seat and connects to an Alpine AV head unit with a big LCD. This last option gives you a system nearly as good as what you’d get built into a new car.

Cell-Phone Adapter: Parrot CK3100 LCD – Cell phones can be distracting and often illegal when held in your hand. If youre not a fan of an earpiece dangling as you drive, get a dash-mounted Bluetooth adapter such as Parrot’s, which connects to most car stereos or a separate speaker. Only a small display stays visible. There is also voice recognition which lets you dial by name.

Interior car maintenance should never be neglected. Spotless upholstery can make any journey, whether it’s around the corner or across the country, a much more pleasurable experience for you and your passengers. An automobile with seats that appear to be held together with duct tape or are covered in garbage will have the opposite effect. However, some damage to an automobile’s inside, the kind that’s more serious than stains or clutter, may not be the driver’s fault. In the event of an accident, quality auto body shops are equipped to fix both the interior and exterior of a car. But to avoid doing any cosmetic harm to your vehicle, here are some tips:

Keep Food and Drinks On The Table

Regardless of how well a drink sits in a cup holder, it still has the potential to spill. A nasty enough bounce over a pothole could do the trick. As popular as drive-through fast food is throughout the nation, ketchup and mustard can leave brutal stains on your car interior. The only surefire way to avoid lunch becoming an unsightly addition is to forego eating and drinking on the go altogether.

Bring a Trash Bag

Often, piles of garbage will pile up in an automobile and its owner may not have the time or the patience to clean it all out. This all-too common situation can be avoided if there’s already a place to put trash. Putting any waste in one convenient receptacle will also preserve an interior’s appearance, to a certain degree. A full bag of trash might not be the prettiest sight in the world, but it beats an arbitrarily arranged pile of junk.

Keep Cleaning Materials in the Glove Box

Plenty of products are custom made to remove stains from automobile interiors. Why not keep something on hand so spills can be stopped before becoming permanent eyesores? CNN even recommends keeping toothpaste in the glove compartment. Of course, that’s also handy if you happen to need to freshen up at some unexpected point during your travels.

Don’t Smoke Inside The Car

It’s a well-established fact that smoking can lead to serious damage to anyone’s health. But a car filled with cigarette smoke can cause a yellow or brownish veneer to develop on upholstery. For that matter, a dropped cigarette can leave burn marks on carpets or sears or even cause an accident in a worst-case scenario. Refusing to smoke inside a car will not only prevent these problems but it could even help a smoker cut down and may even eventually break the habit.

Keep Kids Accountable

CNN also points out that youngsters aren’t always the greatest at picking up after themselves. For moms and dads who spend lots of time driving, the news source recommends a “Bring It In, Take It Out” policy. That way, families can guarantee that backpacks, lunch boxes or whatever other accoutrements wee ones carry won’t turn into car clutter.

However, if an automobile’s interior has been dealt more serious damage – such as the type that can result from an accident – its owner should consider contacting a collision repair shop where technicians specialize in repairing both the exterior and interior of any vehicle.

The engine is the most expensive and complex component of any standard vehicle. When it begins to overheat, it can be for a number of reasons; including clogged radiator, bad thermostat, low coolant, broken fan belt, broken cooling fan, coolant leak, and more. But the underlying reason behind any overheating engine is due to the vehicle’s cooling system losing its ability to regulate and remove excess heat from the motor. Although an unpleasant predicament to be in, when your car overheats while driving, it’s important to not panic. Continue reading for an instructional guide for safely and efficiently managing an overheating engine on the road.

Managing an Overheated Car Engine

Whether you notice your dashboard’s temperature gauge climbing, or see smoke bellowing from underneath your hood, when an engine begins to overheat, it is critical to stop the vehicle as soon as possible. This means pulling over to the side of the road, shoulder of the interstate, into a parking lot, or neighborhood development. No matter where you are, you must immediately find a place to stop and park.

If you feel like you can make it to the nearest service center, the first thing to do is shut off your AC, open all the windows, and turn ON your heat. This sounds crazy in the summertime (or even the winter opening the windows), but turning on the heat and opening car windows relieves pressure from the engine and can buy you some time to get to an auto repair shop.

Once you are at a stop, whether on the side of the road or a service station, be sure to not open the hood until it stops steaming. This could take up to 30 minutes. If you are at a service station, a technician will handle everything, including this; but if you are by yourself on the road, just be sure to wait before you pop the hood.

Once the car cools down, you can pop the hood and open the radiator cap. Check to see that you have engine coolant and that it is the color it should be (whatever color it is when it’s new). If you notice reddening or odd coloring, then your coolant is dirty and needs replaced. If it is just low, try refilling it with your emergency stash of radiator fluid in the trunk. Everyone should always have radiator fluid and windshield wiper fluid on hand at all times for emergencies.

If you do not have coolant on-hand, simply use water instead. You don’t have either, it is best to contact a local roadside assistance service for help. Then have them transfer your vehicle to the nearest service station for inspections and service.

Genesis 950 is a cleaner like no other. It is a surfactant based cleaner that works with water to break apart stains and lift them from the surface. It is a green cleaner, and in turn is safe for you, your family and your pets. There are no harsh chemicals, there is no bleach, and no ammonia. In addition to safely cleaning, it also deodorizes and removes odors. On top of that, it will also kill bacteria and deter mold growth.

Genesis 950 can be used as a spot cleaner or as a full out carpet cleaner compatible with steam cleaning machines and other carpet cleaners. As a spot cleaner, Genesis 950 should be mixed at a ratio of 1 part Genesis 950 to 7 parts water. Using a spray bottle, or a bucket with the mixture and a sponge or cloth, clean the stained area. Allow it to sit for a few moments, then rinse with water. In the example to the right, a very heavily stained outdoor carpet is being cleaned using Genesis 950 and water in the described 1:7 ratio. The carpet was covered in some of the toughest stains to remove. Grass stains, grease stains and oil stains were found throughout the carpet. It also had some mold growth on it as well as everyday dirt from traffic. After being sprayed with the mixture, the carpet was gently scrubbed with a simple sponge. You can see the dramatic difference in the photo with the sponge. After using the sponge, the carpet was rinsed with a separate clean sponge. The real dramatic change can be seen in the photo below which shows the full carpet in a before and after shot. This carpet went from being ready to go on the curb to looking like a brand new carpet.

As solution in a carpet cleaning machine, Genesis 950 works like nothing you have ever used before. Unlike other cleaners, there is no soap in Genesis 950. Rather then clog your carpet up with suds and chemicals, it breaks down whatever is in the carpet. This particular carpet was plagued with stains. The area was in a basement where cats were kept when they were home alone. There were several accidents. From urine stains to vomit, these cats did everything you don’t want a cat to do on the carpet. The stains accumulated over time. Some were yellowish from the urine. Some were tinted with dye from the food that didn’t go down right. On top of pet stains there were traffic stains as this also served as the area where winter boots and wet shoes would go. Over time the stains got worse. Attempts were made regularly to clean the stains with typical cleaners found in every grocery store and box outlet. Some of the most popular and most trusted cleaners were used. They however did not remove the stain. In fact, much of the gray seen in the photo is not from pet stains or from traffic stains, it is what was left behind when other cleaners were tried. Eventually, Genesis 950 was used in a Bissel Pro Heat. As you can see, the results are night and day. Not only did Genesis 950 remove months of stains, it also removed the stains left behind by other cleaners.

Genesis 950 is perfect for pet stains. The reason for that is because of how it breaks down the stains. Because there are no harsh chemicals, the carpet is not affected in any way. Some cleaners will actually oxidize the carpet, causing it to change colors. Genesis 950 also has no enzymes in it which is very important. Enzymes are not very effective for removing pet stains. Enzymes operate on the concept that one structure will alter or affect another. This theory implies that the enzymes will break down the stains from a pet. What makes enzymes problematic is that they are very sensitive as to what they affect. For example, a pet’s diet or health may alter variations in the urine. Such variations prevent the enzyme from altering the stain. Likewise, temperature is another factor. If the temperature is off, the stain can not be broken down. There are other factors too. How old is the enzyme? Has anything else been used on the area that will alter the enzyme? Genesis 950 is also ideal for pet stains because it doesn’t contain ammonia or vinegar. Far too often pet owners are given the misdirection to clean pet stains with either vinegar or ammonia. This is the worst advice that could possibly be given. Both vinegar and ammonia contain some of the same chemical compounds found in urine. Cats and dogs alike urinate in an area based on scent. They prefer to go in generally the same spot. Because vinegar & ammonia contain some of the same compounds found in urine, that smell can mislead them and cause them to go in any area you clean with it. Because Genesis 950 deodorizes, it will actually kill the germs and bacteria that are released from pet stains and prevent your animal from going in that spot again.

But Genesis 950 isn’t just for pet owners. It will clean some of the worst stains you can imagine. To the left is one of the worst stains imaginable. Pasta! Pasta stains are never a pretty site. This particular stain came from an entire bowl of ravioli spilled on the floor. This was brand new carpet in the room where food should not have even been! Naturally, that is where the stain ended up. In this example, the stain was first treated by hand using the 1:7 ratio of Genesis 950 and water. However because the pasta was so thick, it seeped down into the fibers and needed to be cleaned with a machine. A Spotbot was used to clean this area. With the spot bot, the portable machine was placed on top of the stain where it’s brushes were allowed to gently rotate into the carpet while the machine extracted the stain. To speed the process up, and directly attend to the stain, the attachment hose was used to clean the area. As seen in the bottom photo, the Genesis 950 was able to completely remove the stain and restore the carpet to it’s original new state, leaving no indication there was ever a stain.

Genesis 950 is sold in concentrate form. Unlike other cleaners, it is not watered down. When you purchase Genesis 950, you are buying a concentrated cleaner. This also makes Genesis 950 easy to use in a machine. There are two types of carpet cleaning machines.

There are machines that have 2 compartments. One for water, and one for solution. In these machines, simply fill the reservoir that holds water with straight water, and the reservoir that holds solution with straight Genesis 950. These types of machines then have settings which determine how much solution is mixed with the water. Generally these settings are low, medium heavy and rinse. For most stains, we would recommend the heavy setting. Once you have selected your level, simply go over the carpet. Once you have cleaned the entire carpet, go over it a second time using only water in the machine, or using the rinse cycle. This will flush out and pick up everything the Genesis 950 has broken apart in the carpet. In some cases, you may want to rinse more then once depending on how dirty the return water is.

Other types of machines have 1 tank where the water and cleaning solution are mixed. In these machines, we again recommend a 1:7 ratio of Genesis 950 to water. This can however be bumped up to a 50/50 mix if needed. As with the other machine types, once you have cleaned the carpet, go over it a second time. This time with only water in the tank. This will allow the carpet to be rinsed of everything the Genesis 950 has broken up and lifted.

Genesis 950 will clean more then stains and carpet though. It will degrease engines, make grills look new, give your car a detailing like nothing else and can be used in kitchens and bathrooms. You will never find a cleaner so diverse. On top of it, it’s green!!!

Driveline vibrations can be tricky to diagnose, because you can’t get under the car and see what is going on while it is driving down the road at 60 MPH. If you have read my first article on the three types of driveline vibration, you have a pretty good way of narrowing down the list of possibilities based on if the vibration is engine speed related, vehicle speed related, or engine load related. Here are some other considerations to keep in mind when diagnosing a classic car vibration.

The first thing to consider is the overall current situation. If this is a new build that has never been run before, then everything is suspect. You may have total faith in your engine builder, but could one of his tools be out of calibration? Is the engine supposed to be externally balanced, and you ordered the correct flywheel but actually received one for an internally balanced engine? Are your driveshaft angles out of spec? Could you possibly have a defective pinion or axle bearing, a bent axle, a warped wheel, or a tire out of balance? Is your exhaust touching the body or another component at any point? Are all the suspension bolts, body to frame bolts, and steering linkage nuts/bolts tight?

If this is a modified car, there are so many more things to think about. If you have 1968 Camaro (my favorite year!) with a Total Cost Involved front end, a late model LS3 engine with home-made engine mount towers, a Keisler transmission, a Currie 9″ rear end, and a Detroit Speed rear spring and shock package, there are a number of different opportunities for incompatibility, not to mention the fact that the car is almost 40 years old and the production tolerances back then were considerably “looser” than they are now. Aftermarket companies usually design their parts to fit a completely stock car, and their parts will usually fit an otherwise unmodified car very well. When you start to combine aftermarket parts from different manufacturers, you sometimes run into problems. The aftermarket front end may be designed to improve cornering ability which changes some geometry that the aftermarket transmission system also changes due to tunnel interference with the transmission, and then the rear end company also takes a few liberties with their design to make the rear end fit several different cars, and the rear suspension company modifies the geometry for maximum traction when drag racing. Each part by itself works perfectly with an otherwise stock car, but when all are combined you can end up with a car where the transmission touches the car body and the driveshaft angles are unacceptable. This of course isn’t always the case, but if you run into a vibration problem on a heavily modified car you need to take this possibility into account.

If it is a recent restoration that was vibration-free before, then first look at anything that was changed, and the relationship all those components have with other systems on the car. If you just swapped a Ford 9″ rear end into your Chevy, the rear end itself may be fine, but you could have altered the driveshaft angles. An angle that was barely acceptable before might be slightly beyond the limit now, creating a vibration.

Sometimes you have to “think outside the box”. I once corrected a “vibration” in a two year old, 25,000 mile Buick Lesabre that had a vibration complaint since day one. It had been to three different dealerships, where they had rebalanced and replaced the tires and wheels several times, had multiple wheel alignments, and even had the shocks and struts replaced. I noticed on a test drive that the vibration was only in the steering wheel. I could not feel it in the seats, the armrests or the dash, or see it in the mirrors. I took it back to the shop and ran over some speed bumps at about 10 MPH to see what happened, and the steering wheel moved about three inches up and down! I was a service writer at the time, and all of the technicians refused to believe that the steering column could be loose from the factory, so none of them would work on it. I dug into the dash and found that two of the four bolts that secure the steering column to the dash were about three turns shy of being even finger tight! It had come that way from the factory, and none of the previous technicians had taken the time to pay attention to what was actually happening with the car. I tightened the loose bolts, and I had a customer for life! Sometimes you have to open your mind a little, and throw all assumptions out the window.

The bottom line is to take your time and consider all the possibilities. Assess the overall situation, drive the car, and think about what is happening. Don’t make any assumptions, and realize that aftermarket parts from different reputable companies aren’t always designed to work with each other. Have an open mind, and with patience any vibration problem can be diagnosed and corrected.

Regardless if you have just recently purchased a new car or are looking to spruce up your old vehicle, adding floor mats can make all the difference. Whether you are purchasing floor mats from a car dealership or a automotive shop, the options are usually large and may be confusing. Generally, there are two main categories of floor mats: rubber floor mats and carper floor mats. When making a decision between the two materials, the choice is generally one of desired look and specific needs.

Rubber floor mats are the better choice for vehicles that do a great deal of hauling materials or people. Look to include rubber floor mats in truck beds or in the rear of vehicles and in trunks. In addition to being much easier to clean than their carpet cousins, rubber floor mats may offer a bit of skid protection, so that items you are hauling are not catapulted from one end of your vehicle to another. Also, if you live in an area of the country that experiences particular messy weather or have a great deal of mud around your home or place of business, you may want to consider rubber floor mats specifically for the clean up potential.

Carpet floors mats are generally designated for cars, although there is no one reason why carpet must be included in cars and vice versa. Generally, carpet floor mats are though to look better, and are often purchased directly from the dealership in a color that matches the interior carpeting of the vehicle. If you purchase carpet floor mats from an automotive store or an outside source other than a dealership, you may have potential problems in matching the color of the floor mat to the color of your interior. In this instance, consider using a coordinating color that will hide stains and clean up easily while looking nice with the interior of your car.

Although carpet floor mats are usually purchased for vehicles designed for transportation instead of hauling purposes, many individuals find them inappropriate. Especially if you have small children or pets, carpet floor mats can become easily dirty and stained with muddy feet or spills. For this reason, consider mats that are topped with a stain protective coating so that spills and liquids puddle on the surface instead of soaking through the mat. Although floor mats are generally the line of protection for the carpet underneath, very few individuals ever let this carpet show and they often look for clear protective vinyl or rubber mats to protect their floor mats. Keep in mind that any floor mat should be secured to the floor to prevent slipping upon entering or exiting the vehicle, especially if the mat is located under the driver’s seat.

Consider using rubber floor mats for their customization options, since many individuals want to create a look especially for their car. These customizations can be anything from a name or nickname emblazoned on the floor mat to a cartoon character or a favorite sports athlete’s number. With the booming customization business involving vehicles of all makes, shapes, and sizes, it is not surprising the customized floor mats have also become a trendy extra for vehicles.

In the end, the choice of rubber or carpet floor mats is completely up to you. Consider first your purposes of the vehicle and then your budget to determine which type of mat will best meet your needs. If budget is a main concern in your choice, turn to the World Wide Web, where you can often find great prices on popular styles and brands of floor mats.

Owners of motorcycle or ATV always complain about their batteries. If you dont have a motorcycle battery charger or a battery trickle charger, you will definitely have problems. A battery will self-discharge at the rate of 5% per month just sitting around. It would seem logical to assume that a low battery can be charged simply by riding your bike or atv. A low battery cannot be fully charged by riding the bike, no matter how far you go.

Lets start with the battery. If the bike is not in use for 30 days, the battery should be placed on charge with a 2 amp or smaller battery trickle charger for 24-48 hours every 30 days with no usage. This would be a very good idea on bikes that are ridden only once or twice a month as well. Most automotive battery chargers charge at 6, 10, or greater amperage. Using a motorcycle battery charger like that will overheat the battery, warping the plates inside until they ground out against each other, shortening battery life. A battery should never be charged at more than 10% of its rated capacity. The largest battery in our industry is 20 amps, so 2 amps is the maximum charge rate for that battery. Anything more will damage it.

Besides damaging the battery when charging at excessive amperage, the battery remains low on charge after the quick charge, and the same damage will occur, even if you are successful in getting the bike to start. Then the charging system will be strained running the bike with the low battery, possibly causing damage to the alternator components.

When a battery is in a low state of charge (for a period of time), the acid in it separates (as mentioned in last paragraph). This causes a condition known as sulfation. Sulfation causes deterioration of the lead plates inside the battery, leading to an early failure. The lower that the batteries state of charge becomes, the faster sulfations effects take over, weakening the battery quicker.

Once a battery has been left completely dead, they will almost always not come back from that totally dead condition. The handful that will, are almost never very reliable or very strong again.

The bottom line to this battery deal is to work to never let the battery go dead or stored in a low state of charge.

It is best to think of motorcycle battery chargers or battery trickle chargers as a maintenance system. A motorcycle battery chargers or battery trickle chargers are basically designed to replace the energy required to start the motorcycle. In effect, a battery that started the bike at 80% charge, will likely only get to 80-85% after running. Not only will riding the bike with a low battery not fully charge the battery, this causes the battery charger to charge as hard as it can while trying to charge the low battery. A motorcycle battery charger or battery trickle charger are not designed to stay at full charge level for extended periods. When required to do so, this over heats rectifiers, stator windings, and regulator components causing them to fail. This only adds to the cost of replacing the battery that was failing anyway.

A motorcycle battery charger or battery trickle charger can be purchased for below $40. If you prefer not to have to remember to plug/unplug the charger during storage, a battery trickle charger is a great solution as they can be left plugged in.

Many vehicle owners may be unaware it is not always necessary to buy a brand new engine when the old one in their car fails to work. As in clothes and furniture, there are also second hand engines that although may not have the newest parts can still perform its needed functions. These are the so-called rebuilt or remanufactured engines.

Rebuilt engines are those that have been dismantled, checked, cleaned and their parts repaired or replaced for upgrading purposes. Using this type of engine known as repowering is less expensive compared to purchasing a new engine or vehicle and it can even lengthen your cars life if you choose the right one for your vehicle. Some parts may still be the original or they can be slightly used or they can also be brand new. Whats important to remember is to always ask for a warranty from manufacturers. Others may provide a certified staff and checks on used engines or a combination of both.
Involved in the process of rebuilding engines are the reforming of the piston-cylinder system, smoothing and lubricating of all bearings, regrounding of crankshaft or camshaft and connecting of rods that have been gauged. Replacement of other parts including the timing belt and gaskets may also be needed.

A big advantage of using rebuilt engines is its low cost despite the intensive labor that went into manufacturing it. There are many online vendors these days that offer cheap rebuilt and used engines or motors of various brands allowing vehicle owners to gain sufficient savings. Among the popular brands that are in demand are the Ford engines as well as those from Japanese-made vehicles such as Toyota and Honda.

Another benefit of rebuilding engines is the fact that they are now able to meet the latest original equipment manufacturer (OEM) specifications. With improvements in OEM specifications different from the original, your engine has a good chance of running smoother and more efficiently than before.

In line with this trend of using rebuilt engines, the Automotive Repair Council (ARC) is taking steps to inform consumers about the advantages of installing a rebuilt engine and availing of machine shop services instead of buying a new or used vehicle or using a used engine. The council advocates that using a remanufactured engine is as good or even better than the original one. It is now distributing copies of its 16-page consumer booklet to its members in various states while providing relevant information on its website.

If youre one person considering using rebuilding engines or rebuilding your existing engine, Low Mileage Engines can help you. This company sells only certified remanufactured used car and truck engines both domestic and foreign models to include Chevrolet, Cadillac, Audi, Hyundai, BMW, Jeep, Toyota, Nissan and Lincoln. Low Mileage Engines supplies engines with verified mileage via the Carfax mileage verification.